A. Don't sweat it, check out our Glossary.

A. All our sponsorship programs are run through Gary Fisher dealers. The best chance to gain some level of sponsorship is to have your local dealer contact their Fisher representative for support.

A. Most of them come from places Gary has ridden around the world. Others are from Native American culture. Yet others are inspired from modern culture.

A. We understand that weight is an important piece of information that many riders factor into their buying decision. We have chosen not to post bike weights on the website for several reasons:

1. It is most accurate for a rider to weigh a bike in a bike shop as opposed to us listing it on the website, because there are many variables that affect the weight of the bike- i.e. frame size, decal/color options, production and component weight variation. Bottom line, we would have two choices, estimate heavy so we would never be called liars, or go light, knowing that we would be wrong on occasion.
2. Many of our competitors do list bike weights, and we know that they are not accurate. We know that they have chosen to list a lighter weight than 99% of the bikes delivered to the local dealer's sales floor. For the rider simply looking on the internet, Fisher bikes may not compare as favorably as they would if you actually weighed the bikes at the bike shop.
3. We encourage riders to remember that anyone can make a bike lighter, but Fisher only sells bikes that are 'responsibly light', meaning that all the components have passed strict impact and fatigue testing. We build our bikes to be safe and last a long time, so be sure to compare company warranties when you are comparing weights.

A. You can find product information for the last few model years in the Archive or Manuals sections.

A. While Fisher's new G2 offset forks are redefining the way that mountain bikes handle on the trail and elevating off-road performance to a new level, a G2 fork is not required for the new model Fisher frames. For example, if you were to compare the head tube angles of the "old" Fisher Cake model and the "new" G2 Fisher HiFi, they are as follows:
Cake = 69.5 degree
HiFi = 69.7 degree
Those angles are virtually identical; what this means to a Fisher riders is that if they are replacing their Cake frame with that of the new HiFi, they will get the same handling characteristics that they have always had with their Cake on their new HiFi by using the non-G2 fork from their Cake on their new HiFi. They will also get the added bonus of a much lighter chassis, Pressed Cartridge Pivots, and updated rear suspension.

This principle also applies to our G2 29er hard-tail and G2 29er single-speed riders. By using a traditional 38mm offset fork, you will achieve more traditional handling characteristics as were found in the original Genesis 29" hard tails. Additionally, many riders (especially single-speeders) prefer to opt for a rigid front fork instead of the suspension fork that the bikes are equipped with from the shop. There are currently no G2 offset rigid forks on the market. If you decide to use the Bontrager Switchblade, with its 465mm axle to race, you will achieve a 70.3 (on small and medium) 70.6 (on large and XL) degree static head angle (assuming you're running the stock tires), which will approximate the active handling experienced on our suspended G2 29ers.

A. Most seatposts have the size stamped into them. If you remove the post from the bike, it should be stamped near the maximum height line. If it's not there, your local dealer can help you determine the proper size.

A. Yes, changing stem lengths is fine, within reason. The idea behind the geometry is to keep the rider's weight centered farther back between the wheels. If you get too small a frame, and try to compensate with a really long stem, you'll negate the benefits. As long as you are fit properly to the bike, changing stem length by 5-10mm to fine tune your position is fine.

A. Like all G2 bikes, you can use a standard fork, but you lose the benefits of the quicker steering characteristics.

A. There are many factors to take into consideration. The age of the bike, the diameter of the steerer tube and the geometry of the frame will all affect your choices. Consult your local Fisher dealer to determine the best path to follow to smooth out the trails.

A. We have a limited supply of parts that are compatible with the older frames. Your local Fisher dealer can get replacement bearings and spindles (depending on length).

A. We do not recommend non-factory re-paints and it could affect your warranty. You can repaint the bike offsite, but if the act of repainting causes a breakage/flaw issue with the material it will be deemed non warranty if it can be determined that the stripping/paint process caused the defect.

A. Yes, we do offer re-paint services for our bikes. Contact your local dealer for current color options and pricing.

A. Please read the Gary Fisher Bicycles Limited Lifetime Warranty Information.

A. Please contact your local Fisher dealer for evaluation. We would also recommend not riding the bike until this matter has been serviced by an authorized dealer, failure to do this could cause a void in the warranty.

A. You will need two 5mm allen keys to perform this job. Please refer to the Manuals section to learn more.

A. Chain suck is very elusive and in some cases impossible to solve. However, it can be controlled and minimized. Before we can solve chain suck we must first identify what type(s) of chain suck you're having. Outlined below are some of the more common causes of chain suck:

1. Shifting the ft. derailleur under heavy loads or while out of the saddle. What happens here is the chain will wedge itself on to the two rings so tightly that it won't release from either chain ring. The only way I know to solve this type of chain suck is by educating the rider, and explain how and why it's happening. Once you know how or why it happens you can take steps to adjust your riding style to avoid chain suck.
2. Dirty or worn out chains, chain rings or derailleurs. Maintenance and replacing any suspect component.
3. Inadvertent chain slap; this is where the lower horizontal section of chain will bounce up and down hitting the chain stay. If the chain slides off the chain stay to the outside it can be caught up by the chain rings and get sucked up between the chain stay and the chain rings. The best solution I've found for this type of chain suck is a simple zip tie. Place the zip tie on the chain stay just behind the middle and large chain rings. The zip tie knuckle should be positioned under and to the out side of the chain stay. The zip tie acts as an anti-chain suck device keeping the chain out of the space between the chain rings and chain stay.
4. Bent or warped chain rings, a chain ring can get bent for any number of reasons. Inspect them on a regular basis, and replace them when necessary.
5. Chain drop or over shifting due to ft. derailleur adjustment and or maintenance. Chain drop isn't really chain suck but it can be seen as chain suck because the end result is the same, the chain gets picked up and jambs between the stay and the crank set.
6. Chain drop or over shifting due to frame alignment. Not really chain suck but the end result is the same. Your retailer can measure and evaluate the frame alignment and the solution would be to either align the frame or have it replaced. A shorter bottom bracket may help but it not the best solution for the long term.
7. Mixed chain rings; e.g. two different brands of chain rings. Because each manufactures have their own designs for shifting gates even a small amount of tooth phase difference can and will cause shifting difficulties and chain suck. Solution; match the chain rings.